Collar.



. 1. L. MORGAN.

COLL'AR- APFLI CATION FILED MAY 22. I911- Patented Jan. 22, 1918.

3 SHEETS-SHEET I.

J. L. MORGAN.

Patented Jan. 22, 1918.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2- Jnvenfoz J. L. MORGAN.v

'COLLAR. APPLICATION FILED MAY 22, 19!].

Patented Jan. 22, 19 18.

$0 l l l I lllllllllllll JOHN LAWRENCE MORGAN, F EVERETT, "MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO JOHN MANNING VAN HEUSEN, 0F BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

COLLAR.

Specification of Letters Patent.

I Patented Jan. 22, this.

Application filed May 22, 1917. Serial No. 170,225.

To all ill/b07721 it may concern: 7

Be it known that 1,,JOHN LAWRENCE Mon- GAN, a citizen of the United, States, residing at #34 Evelyn road, Everett, in the county of Middlesex, State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Collars; and I do hereby declare the follotving tobe a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appartains to make and use the same. I I

This invention relates to improvements in folding collars, and more particularly to folding collars of multiply fabric woven in a sinle piece and provided with a weakened or fold portion, the fabric being so woven that the outer portion of the collar will be longer than the inner portion.

The invention willbe described more indetail in connection with the accompanying drawings which illustrate, more or less diagrammatically, the collar and the collar fabric, and the method-and apparatus for weav-' ing the fabric. iriss Figure 1 is a diagrammatic representation In the accompanying draw- 1 of certain of the working parts of the loom suitable for the manufacture of the collar fabric. I I Fig. 2 is a face view of the tapered tension rolls of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a plan view of a piece of the fabric passing over the angular or skewed guide rod.

Fig. 4 is anenlarged diagrammatic cross section of the fabric on a line parallel to the warp thread, that is, a section lengthwise of the fabric.

Fig. 5 is a similar enlarged diagrammatic cross-section taken at right angles to that of Fig. 4, that is, a section taken parallel to the" weft thread of the fabric.

Fig. 6 is a face view of the fabric having a portion broken away to expose certain of the warp and weft threads.

Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic representation in perspective of a piece of the fabric.

Fig. 8 is a diagrammatic cross-section of :1V fabric provided with a modified fold portion.

Fig. 9 shows in perspective a collar embodying the invention.

Fig. 10 shows a portion of the fabric with phe collar blank indicatedthereon in dotted mes.-

Fig. 11 shows the collar blank from the fabric; and

Fig. 12 shows the blank bound and in its finished state ready to be folded.

In describing the invention more in detail in connection with the accompanying drawings and with the embodiment or embodiments of the invention illustrated thereon, it will be understood that the drawings as well as the description are intended to be illustrative of the invention and that variations and modifications can be made in the embodiment illustrated and described without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

Referring more particularly to Figs. 1 to 3, wherein the production of the collar fabric is illustrated, it will be seen that the Warp and binder threads are carried' in rolls 1-1 and from there pass overthe guide rods 2 and then through the spacing frame 3 and around the guide rods 1- and through the frames 66. Each warp and binder thread, after passing through the thread supporting loop of the frame 6, passes through the'reed 7 supported on the beam 8 and operating in a manner which will be readily understood. The cloth is completely formed at the point 9- and thence passes over the skewed or an gular guide rod 10 and between the tapered tension rolls 11 and 12 to the take-up roll 13.

The tapered tension rolls are shown in Fig. 2 and are of such proportions that the fabric produced will have a predetermined greater length on one side than on the other. This lengthening of the fabric on one side,

as compared to the other, is accomplished by the manufacture of the novel collar of the present invention is amultiply fabric; and the particular fabric illustrated is a twoply fabric. This two-ply fabric consists of anupper and a lower fabric of the ordinary weave and a middle portion composed of filling or gut threads, the up er and lower fabric with the gut threads between them being held together with binder threads.

The construction of the fabric, according to the preferred embodiment of the inven- V tion, is illustrated somewhat diagrammatically in Figs. 4 to 7 inclusive.

Referring first to Fig. 4, it will be seen that the weft threads 1717 of the upper and lower fabrics or plies are woven with the Warp threads l818, while the filling or gut threads 20 lie lengthwise, between the upper and lower fabrics and are held in place by the binder threads 21'.

The section of Fig. 5 is taken at right angles to that of Fig. et and shows the warp threads 17l7 of the upper and lower fabrics woven with the weft threads 18-48, and the filling threads 20 between the two outer plies or fabrics. .At the point indicatedby the numeral 23, certain of the filling or gut threads 20 are omitted, thereby producing a weakened or fold portion in the fabric extending lengthwise of the fabric. In the particular structure shown in Fig. 5, eight of these longitudinal filling threads are omitted. The production of the Weakened portion in this way does not affect the upper and lower layers or plies of the fabric which still present an uninterrupted and finished appearance.

In F ig. 6 the fabric is shown with portions broken away to expose the warp threads 20 and to show the space 23 where the filling threads have been omitted to form the weakened or fold portion. Thiswcakened or fold portion is further indicated at '25 in Fig. 7 as a well defined line or space along which the folding of the collar takes place.

In Fig. 8 the fabric is provided with a modified form of weakened or fold portion. This fabric, which is-also a two-ply fabric,

' is composed of an upper fabric woven from warp thread 29 and weft threads 30 and a lower fabric woven from warp threads 31 and weft threads 7 Between the upper and lower fabrics or plies are the filling or gut j threads 33. The fold portion of the fabric is made by omitting the threads 33 and combining the upper and lower fabrics into 'a singlefabric having double the number of warp and weft threads. The fabric is thus made very dense and firm at the fold portion so that it has greater wearing qualities.

The fabric may be produced of different widths and with variations in its construc' tions and proportions, as will be readily understood. The fabric may, for example, have a width of about five and one half inches, and be divided bythe weakened or fold portion 14 into a panel 15 about three inches wide and a panel or portion 16 slightly less than two and onehalf inches Wide, as indicated in Fig. 3.

It will also be evident that the panel 15 can be made of a predetermined greater length than the panel 16, this regulation be ing effected by the contour or taper of the tension rolls. The fabric may, for example, be about 16%% longer at the outer edge of the longer panel than at the inner edge of the shorter panel. For example, if the right hand warp thread of the fabric illustrated in Fig. 2 travels at the rate of 36 inches in a given period of'time, the left hand Warp,

thread may travel about 421} inches in the .same time interval; while any intermediate warp thread will travel a proportional distance, according to its position in the fabric.

The fabric may, for example, be produced having 352 warp threads to the inch and 200 weft threads to the inch, in which case there would be 88 warp'threads in each of the upper and lower fabrics, 8.8 filling orgut threads and 88 binder threads binding the upper and lower fabric together and holding the filling threadsfirmly in place. The

binder threads are, evenly distributed over the surface of the fabric, particular atten tion being paid-to having a binder; thread come at each end of the space 23 (where certain of the warp threads are omitted in order to produce the weakened'or fold portion.)

In producing the collar from the finished fabric, the collar blank 26 may be stamped from the fabric as indicated in Fig. 10, and the blank thus produced, as shown in Fig. 11 may be then provided with a binding 28 to finish the edge of the collar. After addition of button holes the finished collar will.

shape and the weakenedor fold portion will. I The collar made from the fabric Wlll' slmilarly have a curvilikewise be curvilinear.

linear fold portion as clearly indicated at Q-l in Figs. 10 to 12. \Vhen the flat collar 'with this curvilinear set is folded, as indicated in Fig. 9, it will naturally assume a permanent curvilinear shape or set and will fold smoothly along the fold or weakenedv portion. Moreover, since the outer panel or folding portion of the collar is longer than the inner portion, the tendency of theouter portion to bind upon the inner portion will be avoided. By giving to the outer portion the proper increase in length, as compared to the inner portion, ample spacecan be provided to permit a necktie to pass freely between the inner neck-band portion of the collar and the outer turn-down portion.

WV here the fabric as a whole is woven under the same tension, and where the outer turn-down portion is woven of a greater length than the inner portion, the collar Wlll retain its form and its permanent curvilinear set after laundrying. Moreover, by

this fold than-on the other. lit-follows that there Will' be a greater number of weft threads per inch in the inner -o'r neck-band portion of the collar than in'the outer or turnsdown portion. So also, since the warp threads are drawn or fed faster in the longer portion of the fabric, there will be a greater length ofthe warp threads in the longer or, outer portion of the fabric or. collar than in a corresponding portion of the inner or neck-band portion of the fabric or "collar.

. The different layers or plies of the fabric may be made of different material and this may, in particular, be desirable where a finer or more expensive material is desiredv in the outer ply than is necessary in the other plies of the fabric: a

It will thus be understood that the collars may be made of different materials, or 'different combinations of materials; and also that the fabrics may be woven of different degrees of fineness. So also, the collars may y .be made of various shapes and proportions,

' and having an intermediate edge-fold poras will be readily understood.

I claim: 1

1. A folding collar, made up of an inner panel and an outer panel of two-ply fabric Woven in one piece under the same tension and having an intermediate edge-fold portion,the outer panel being longer than the inner so that the collar will take on a curvie linear set when folded; substantially as described.- i

2. A folding collar, made up of an inner panel and an outer panel of two-ply fabric woven in one piece under the same tension tion, the outer panel hemp longer than the inner so that the collar will take on a curvilinear'set when folded; substantially as de' scribed.-

3. A folding collar, made up of an inner panel and an outer panel of two-ply fabric woven in onepiece under the sametension and having an intermediate weakened edgefold portion, the outer panel being longer than the inner so that the collar will take on a curvilinear set when folded; substantially as described.

4. A folding collar, made up of .an inner panel and anouter panel of two-ply fabric woven in one piece under the same tension and having an intermediate weakened-edgefoldportion, the outer panel being longer than the inner so that the collar will take on a curvilinear set when folded; substantially as described. V 5. A folding collar made u ofan in her panel and an outer panel 0 two-ply interwoven fabric. woven in one piece and having an intermediate edge-fold portion, the outer anel being woven with aninherent 'curvi inear set; substantially as described.

6.- A-"folding collar made up of an inner panel and an outer panel of two-ply inter- -woven' fabric woven. in one piece and having an intermediate edge-fold portion, both the inner and outer panels being woven withan inherent curvilinear set; substantiallyas described. A,

7. A f lding collar, made 'up an inner panel and an outer panel of two-ply fabric woven in one piece-and having an intermediateedge-fold portion, the. outer panel being woven longer than the inner and being longer at its outer edge than at itsinner edge; substantially as described.

8. A folding collar, made up of an inner panel and an-outer panel of two-ply fabric woven in one piece and having an intermediate edge-fold portion, the fabric being woven progressively longer from the'inner edge of the free inner panel to the free outer edge of the outer panel; substantially as described.

ture.

JOHN LAWRENCE MORGAN.

In testimony whereof I afix my signa- 

